Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, is far more than the San Fermín festival that made it famous. Behind its medieval walls you'll find a compact, walkable old town, elegant squares, some of the greenest parks in northern Spain and a pintxos scene that rivals its Basque neighbours.
It's an easy city to enjoy at any pace: perfect for couples on a city break, for families who like exploring on foot, and for food lovers who plan their day around the next bar counter. Spring and early autumn are especially pleasant, with mild weather and a relaxed local rhythm.
Make sure you visit:
Start in Plaza del Castillo, the city's living room, where locals meet on terraces and the historic Café Iruña recalls the days when Hemingway wrote about Pamplona. From there, the narrow streets of the old town lead you to the Cathedral of Santa María la Real, whose Gothic cloister is one of the most beautiful in Spain, and on to the Plaza Consistorial, where the rocket that opens the festival is launched every 6 July.
Walk the route of the bull run along Calle Estafeta, then climb up to the old walls and the Rincón del Caballo Blanco, a lovely viewpoint over the river and the surrounding countryside. Finish at the Ciudadela, a star-shaped Renaissance fortress now surrounded by lawns and paths, perfect for a late-afternoon stroll.
Family-friendly activities:
Pamplona is wonderfully green, and children love its parks. Spend a morning in Yamaguchi Park, a Japanese-inspired garden with ponds, little bridges and a waterfall, then pop into the Planetarium right next door for a show under the stars, ideal on a rainy day.
Another good choice is the Taconera Gardens, the city's oldest park, where deer and ducks live in the old moat below the walls. If your family enjoys history, the Museum of Navarra, housed in a former hospital in the old town, is a manageable visit, and following the yellow arrows of the Camino de Santiago through the city turns into a fun mini-adventure for younger walkers.
Local delicacies you have to try:
Food is a big part of any visit. Start the evening with a pintxos crawl along Calle San Nicolás and Calle Estafeta, where bars line their counters with small creations; do as the locals do and hop from one to the next with a glass of Navarra wine or rosado.
At the table, look out for the region's famous produce: piquillo peppers, often stuffed, white asparagus and menestra, a dish of seasonal vegetables from the Ribera. Meat lovers should try chistorra, a thin local sausage, or cordero al chilindrón, lamb slowly cooked with peppers and tomato. Round things off with cuajada, a traditional curd dessert, and a small glass of pacharán.
Make the most of your visit:
Pamplona is a great base for discovering Navarra, from medieval villages to pilgrim towns. These are our favourite day trips:
- Olite (40 minutes): a medieval town crowned by a fairytale Royal Palace.
- Puente la Reina (25 minutes): a Camino de Santiago town with a famous Romanesque bridge.
- Estella-Lizarra (40 minutes): churches, palaces and a charming old quarter by the river.
- Roncesvalles (1 hour): a peaceful Pyrenean village where many pilgrims begin the Camino in Spain.
