Asturias: a little treat by the sea

Silken Gran Hotel del Sella: a window on the Cantabrian Sea since 1962

Right where the River Sella meets the sea, Santa Marina beach is just a few metres away. This stately house, where high society spent their summers in the early 20th century, is now the Silken Gran Hotel del Sella, with bright, outward-facing rooms, all with large windows.

Your first coffee comes with beach views in the café. And when the sun is out, the outdoor saltwater pool cools you off with the sea as a backdrop, or you can enjoy a game on the padel court.

As evening falls, the restaurant has been serving fish and seafood brought in daily from Ribadesella's fish market since 1962.

Few hotels in Ribadesella bring together a beachfront setting, history and seafood cuisine under one roof. Book your getaway and let the Cantabrian Sea set the pace of your days.

Ribadesella: where dinosaurs, cave art and canoeing meet the sea

Divided in two by the mouth of the Sella river, this fishing town in eastern Asturias brings together millions of years of history within just a few kilometres. From Jurassic dinosaur tracks on its cliffs to grand mansions overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, Ribadesella holds fascinating secrets:

• The “Sistine Chapel” of cave art: Hidden within its karst massif is the Cueva de Tito Bustillo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing prehistoric paintings more than 20,000 years old. It is named after the young caver who discovered it in 1968 and died in a mountaineering accident just days later.

• Dinosaur tracks by the beach: The western end of Santa Marina beach is part of the Dinosaur Coast. At low tide, its cliffs reveal genuine fossilised footprints left 150 million years ago by dinosaurs that walked on two and four legs.

• A town of two halves: The bridge over the Sella separates two contrasting worlds. To the east lie the historic centre, fishing port and lively cider houses. To the west stretches the Santa Marina promenade, lined with Art Nouveau mansions built by “Indianos”, locals who made their fortunes in the Americas.

• The finish line of the “Canoe Festival”: On the first Saturday of every August, the bridge in Ribadesella marks the finish line of the International Descent of the Sella. What began in 1930 as an outing among friends now brings together more than a thousand canoeists and is celebrated as Asturias’s only festival of International Tourist Interest.

• A whaling past: Between the 13th and 17th centuries, the port of Ribadesella was one of the most active whaling centres on the Cantabrian coast. Lookouts scanned the horizon from the watchpoint on monte Corberu, raising the alarm whenever they spotted whales.

Our recommendation:

• Walk up to the Ermita de la Virgen de Guía: Follow the paseo de la Grúa up to this clifftop viewpoint. You’ll enjoy the best panoramic views of the estuary and harbour, with the Picos de Europa in the distance, and see the historic cannons that once defended the entrance to the bay.

• Explore the Indianos route at sunset: Take a leisurely stroll along the Santa Marina beach promenade, admiring façades such as Villa Rosario and the Chalet de los Marqueses de Argüelles, examples of the north’s most elegant colonial architecture.

• Book Tito Bustillo in advance: If you want to see the cave’s Main Panel, book your ticket several weeks ahead. Daily access is strictly limited to protect the paintings.

Asturias is Spain's green north at its most dramatic: snow-capped peaks just an hour from the sea, fishing villages tucked into steep coves and lively cider houses where lunch easily stretches into the afternoon. Squeezed between the Cantabrian Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, it feels refreshingly different from the sun-and-beach Spain many visitors know.

It's a natural fit for couples looking for slow days and good food, for families who love the outdoors and for anyone who prefers hiking boots to sun loungers. Late spring to early autumn brings the mildest weather, but the region's green landscapes are beautiful all year round.

Make sure you visit:

Start in Oviedo, the regional capital, where the elegant old town leads you from the Gothic cathedral to Calle Gascona, the street locals call the "Cider Boulevard". Half an hour away, Gijón has a livelier seaside feel: wander through Cimavilla, the old fishermen's quarter, and stroll along the promenade above San Lorenzo beach.

Then head east towards the mountains. Cangas de Onís, with its famous arched bridge, is the gateway to the Lakes of Covadonga, two glacial lakes high in the Picos de Europa National Park. In peak season you'll go up by shuttle bus from Cangas, so plan an early start. On the way back west, save an afternoon for Cudillero, a colourful fishing village whose houses tumble down the hillside to the harbour.

Beaches we think you'll like:

The Asturian coast is wild and varied. Gulpiyuri, near Llanes, is one of the most unusual beaches in Spain: a tiny inland beach in the middle of a meadow, fed by the sea through underground tunnels. Not far away, Torimbia is a perfect shell-shaped cove framed by green hills; you can only reach it on foot, but the walk is well worth it.

For families, Rodiles, near Villaviciosa, offers a long stretch of golden sand backed by eucalyptus woods, while Playa del Silencio, west of Cudillero, lives up to its name with its rocky amphitheatre and still water on calm days.

Family-friendly activities:

A family day out here often starts on the water. Rent canoes in Arriondas and paddle down the Sella river, an easy, fun descent through lush countryside that ends near Ribadesella. Children will also love the Jurassic Museum of Asturias (MUJA) in Colunga, on a stretch of coast where you can still spot real dinosaur footprints on the rocks.

If you'd rather stay on foot, pick one of the gentle coastal paths or walk a section of the Cares Gorge trail, carved into the rock face. With younger walkers, the stretch from Caín, with its tunnels and footbridges, is enough to feel the full drama of the gorge.

Local delicacies you have to try:

Asturian food is hearty and generous. Order a fabada, the slow-cooked bean stew with chorizo and black pudding, or share a cachopo: two veal fillets filled with ham and cheese, then breaded and fried. Along the coast, look out for fresh hake, pixín (monkfish) and seafood straight from the Cantabrian Sea.

Leave room for cheese, especially the bold blue Cabrales, and finish with a creamy arroz con leche. Whatever you eat, wash it down with natural cider, poured from high above the glass by the waiter to give it its sparkle: watching the escanciado is half the fun.

Make the most of your visit:

Asturias is compact, so a central base like Oviedo or Gijón puts most of the region within easy reach. These are our favourite day trips, with driving times from Oviedo:

• Llanes (1 hour 15 minutes): a lively old town, cliffs and dozens of beaches nearby.
• Ribadesella (1 hour): a pretty harbour where the Sella meets the sea.
• Lastres (50 minutes): a steep fishing village with sweeping coastal views.
• Tazones (45 minutes): a tiny fishing port, ideal for a seafood lunch.