Tossa de Mar is the Costa Brava at its most romantic. Its medieval walls rise straight out of the sea, wrapping a cluster of towers and cobbled lanes above a golden bay, while pine-covered hills and hidden coves stretch away on either side. It's a place with real history and a relaxed, seafaring soul, just over an hour's drive from Barcelona.
Whether you're dreaming of sunsets over the old town as a couple or easy family days by calm water, you'll feel at home here. Spring and early autumn are especially lovely, when the weather is still warm and the lanes are quieter.
Make sure you visit:
Begin in the Vila Vella, the only fortified medieval town still standing on the Catalan coast. Walk the walls, duck through its gateways and wander up the stepped lanes to the ruins of the old Gothic church, where the views over the bay are simply stunning. Keep climbing to the Far de Tossa, the lighthouse on the headland, ideally early in the morning before the heat sets in.
On the way back down, stop for a photo with the statue of Ava Gardner, who came to Tossa in 1951 to shoot a film and helped put the town on the map. Then step into the Museu Municipal, home to finds from a Roman villa and works by the artists who gathered here in the 1930s, including a painting by Marc Chagall.
Beaches we think you'll like:
Platja Gran is the town's main beach, a wide sweep of coarse golden sand right beneath the walls, perfect for a swim with the old town's castle-like skyline in view. Just next door, Mar Menuda is smaller and more sheltered, and a favourite with families thanks to its calm water.
On the other side of the old town, Es Codolar is a tiny cove tucked beneath the Vila Vella, once used by local fishermen and wonderfully atmospheric at sunset. For something wilder, head out towards Sant Feliu to Cala Giverola or Cala Pola, framed by pine trees and rocky cliffs, with clear water that's great for snorkelling.
Family-friendly activities:
Start the day at Mar Menuda, where the shallow water is ideal for little ones and older children can try snorkelling among the rocks. Later, hop on a boat trip along the coast to see sea caves and cliffs you can't reach on foot, or hire a kayak and explore at your own pace.
Short stretches of the Camí de Ronda, the old coastal path, are easy enough for children and lead to small coves where you can stop for a swim. In the evening, a stroll around the walls of the Vila Vella feels like stepping into a storybook.
Local delicacies you have to try:
Food in Tossa is all about the sea. The local signature dish is cim i tomba, a hearty fishermen's stew of fish and potatoes topped with all i oli, first cooked on board the fishing boats. Every September the town's traditional restaurants celebrate it with special menus, a great reason to visit in early autumn.
Otherwise, keep it simple: fish freshly landed at the harbour, a seafood rice on a terrace facing the bay and a glass of Empordà wine. Round it off the Catalan way with a crema catalana and its crackly caramelised top.
Make the most of your visit:
Tossa is a great base for exploring the southern Costa Brava. These are our favourite trips within easy reach:
- Lloret de Mar (15 minutes): lively beaches and the elegant Santa Clotilde gardens above the sea.
- Sant Feliu de Guíxols (35 minutes): reached along one of the most scenic coastal roads in Spain, full of viewpoints and coves.
- Girona (45 minutes): colourful houses along the river Onyar, a magnificent cathedral and a beautiful old Jewish quarter.
- Barcelona (just over an hour): Gaudí, markets and tapas for an unforgettable day in the city.
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